Zenji

The Great Lakes Area

Someone decided that the Karimojong needed iron sheets in order to develop, and then some others decided that they needed them more. The insatiable greed among the inhabitants of the great lakes area and its surrounding areas is a good topic for a research thesis. There must be a psychological disorder of perpetual mental state of scarcity and a propensity to waste the same coveted resources among the creatures who inhabit this place.

If you ever travel northwards towards Chobe and Para, one of the main reasons (if you are not returning home) you would be visiting is not because of the towering shiny glass buildings, pollution and traffic jam. You would mostly like be visiting for a view of undisturbed nature- for Rothschild (adopted name) giraffes, elephants and antelopes. Among other beautiful things you would come across would be a building style that is quickly becoming extinct. Low height, circular, ‘hand-crafted’ intricately designed structures with an elaborate thatch roof top are scattered around an endless patchwork of green grass. When I visited, that is something that I had never seen. It is also something that my little ones may never see.

If we had colonised the world, weaves, wigs and straight hair would not connote professionalism or formality. We should always question our need to throw iron sheets on top of one of the few cultures that refuses to be subdued by ‘modernity.’ Not all things traditional are good. Tradition is like most things, some good, some bad and you have to choose which to keep and which to learn from. But, somethings were purely made out of an indigenous thought for an indigenous landscape. Some of our ways are an identity being lost in decades at a time. We do not need everything about us to only be found in a dilapidated museum, stale and inspected only in front of safe glass screens.

What did the mass manufacturer of iron sheets tell the owner of a grass thatched roof? If the mark of an exclusive eco resort is that it can afford to maintain a thatched roof and the Karimojong with their ‘limited’ resources can handle the thatch of their own roofs, why donate iron? Maybe an iron roof at 35 c is not such a good idea. Maybe glinting iron at eye level is neither good for humans or cattle.

I read in the Newspaper, when the Old Taxi Park was being rehabilitated that Kampala road was probably designed for fifty European cars more than sixty years ago. It seems therefore that we should not be praying for more cars, but we should design a more intricate, climate friendly, pro-efficient, time saving transport that caters to more than just people who can survive the ASYCUDA system. If everyone in Wakiso owned a car, how long would it take you to reach Kampala on a rainy Tuesday morning if you got out of bed at 5:00 a.m.? It took two and a half hours today.

I think nomadic pastoralists might need land security and pasture more than they need modern markers of ‘development’. We, down here by Lake Victoria (near the rift valley that is splitting into another continent in the next hundred thousand years), need roads and transport more than we need more gigantic fuel guzzling second hand cars. The markers of our identity and development have been decided by people who benefit the most from the scarcity which only they can cure.

…kitt kiarie on her youtube vlog was asking, Where did the fireflies go? I too would like to know.

I · Zenji

The Young Generation

No space on the road? Add tuks tuks.

So, here we are again. Right where we started. Except this time, it is you who has left and it is me who has remained here, in this “the youngest population in the world” country. I remember what you said to me on that breezy morning twelve years ago. It was January at about 4:00 a.m. and I was leaving for the first time in a series of travels that I would make for four years.

A few days after you left, I had a meeting with important people. The other party- the most important party- even in his own opinion- to the discussion did not turn up and did not even give an excuse. He too, like us, is part of the young generation.

I left in a hurry, angry that I had moved my world to make it, even when we had not had a caretaker for our little children, only to be met with the disrespect of a fattening official who had no regard for anything else but quick sand riches gained from being the beginning and end of his worries. He is like the man who eats and drinks and then throws his rubbish at the side of the road he will use the next day. It was easier when this attitude was pinned on the soldiers Amin left, who run down the businesses they had taken over by force. It was easier when this way of thinking was pinned on the children of peasants who had never known wealth. It was easier when it was pinned on the effects of a developing nation throwing off the wretchedness of colonialism.

As I prepared to leave, I saw the packing ticket attendant gingerly walking towards my window. At a leisurely pace, he printed the parking ticket and held it to himself for a moment before deciding to give it to me.

“How many are they?”

“Two. But you give me three. I also want water.”

It was my reparation for the sins of the corruption in which he assumed I had partaken; a small atonement for his days spent issuing tickets in the sun while I drove away on my steel horse. He too is part of the young generation.

Just as I began to gain momentum, a craggy uneven motorcycle pretending to be a car, slid into the road in front of me and rattled on at 10km/hour. What had not worked for India was supposed to work for us. As if motorcycle taxis are not enough! Until the ratio is 1:1 motorcycle to citizen and the convoys cannot get to wherever they are always rushing to, the two wheelers keep multiplying.

During the week that you left, the headline was about the national airport. Apparently there had been continuous cases of irregularities and extortion within that long running construction site. How would we know? Our experience there within the same week had led us home with a broken and ransacked suitcase after waiting two hours at the luggage conveyor belt. The woman in uniform and badges that we talked to shortly before the bags mysteriously appeared? She is part of the young generation.

In transit, it was hard to miss the girls in matching clothes and veils whose colours bring disharmony to the retina. They are full of life and full of hope. What is the opposite of an expatriate? That is what they are. All of them were part of the young generation.

At least they are not like their brothers. They have survived the curse of the ghetto generation- The ones who went through the state run ‘school for all’- the ones who, once full of promise are now bound by a drug and theft culture- jobless and killing on a whim for a smart phone from a fellow young one on a New Years Eve, the ones whose representative was deemed to “local’ to lead because of the way he could not explain ‘fiscal policy’.

Now, you too have gone. Are big cars no longer enough? Must the roads be good too? Are a semblance of buildings not enough? Must they also have medicine to administer to sick people? Are big offices no longer enough for you? Must officials also do their job? Is the middleclass dream not big enough for you? Must you seek higher dreams?

Winnie Madikizela. Original uMkhonto we Sizwe. His shadow. His fire. His fight. His rage. His pain. Her pain. Her children’s pain.